Jess Reviews: Chobe River Camp
Written by Jess Tyrrell
Mutozi chwani! (Or, Good day!)
By now, we had started to settle into the Zambezi way of life. Like the myriad waterways that shape the landscape, we felt cool, calm, and collected. But before we knew it, just like the rapid onset of a dry river in flood after the rains, we were on the road again! This time headed east. Dodging herds of cows and goats, we set out for Namibia's border with Botswana: the mighty wildlife-teeming Chobe River! If you missed the first 2 stops of our trip, click to catch up on our 1st and 2nd stops.
Onwards and eastwards to Chobe River Camp!
Location
Chobe River Camp is situated in the far east of the Zambezi Region. Travelling from Nkasa Rupara National Park in the west, we drove along the C49 for about 135 km (see route 3 on the map), reaching Katima Mulilo after an hour and a half. From Katima Mulilo, it is a 74 km stretch (about an hour) on the tarred B8 until a large Gondwana sign on your left indicates the turnoff. You may need to let your tyres down a bit for the short sandy stretch to the camp (remember to pump them up again for long tar stretches!). If you are travelling from Botswana, it is about 4 km from Ngoma Gate, the border post. Once you cross the bridge over the Chobe river on the B8, soon a Gondwana sign indicates the turnoff to the right for the camp.
The Camp
After our scenic drive past villages and classic African landscapes, we were treated to a fruity and refreshing drink on arrival. Chobe River Camp is spread across a grassy bank that extrudes into the meandering Chobe River. Wide-open leisurely living and dining spaces feature uninterrupted views of the river and Chobe National Park on the Botswana side. You can even see elephants, baboons, zebras and more, drinking down at the river from the comforts of the lodge! This is a birders paradise, and you will be treated to a symphony of tweeting and chirping. Take a walk down to the jetty and sit on a comfortable couch on the water edge with a cooling Gin and Tonic in hand, perhaps catching sight of a peeping hippo. There is a swimming pool for those lazy days in the African bush to refresh and sharpen your mind. In the evenings, meals are served around the crackling fire in the traditional African 'boma', inseparable from a classical African safari experience.
Activities
We decided to get up close and personal to the aquatic and semi-aquatic life that calls the Chobe River home, so we opted for a sunset boat cruise (when the slanting afternoon light is perfect for taking pics!). Baxter took us down the majestic river, passing grazing zebras and kudus and locals paddling in traditional mokoros (dug-out canoes). An African Fish Eagle perched along the bank, eyeing out a snack below, while a lizard monitor edged along the water in a similar pursuit. We watched the sunset, yet again, over still water reflecting the surreal palette of the sky. We munched on cool drinks and snacks as vast flocks of birds flew overhead to roost for the night. This signalled our return to the safety of the shores too.
One peaceful afternoon, Alessandro went on a short yet insightful guided walk with Baxter. He learned about the culture of the regions people and how they survive using the tools that nature’s bounty gives them for medicine, crafts, building materials and food. The locals live harmoniously with nature, except for when pesky elephants come in search of water! Luckily, Alessandro did not encounter any ellies along the path (or unluckily, if you ask him).
My animal checklist:
Lilac-breasted Rollers
Impala
Giraffe
Zebras
Elephants
African clawless otter
African Fish Eagles
Pied Kingfishers
African Darters
Hippos
Grey Herons
Crocodiles
Kudus
Monitor lizard
Rooms
There are 20 elevated en-suite tented chalets splayed around the river's edge, built using environmentally conscious materials, including local Mopane timber and canvas. Each chalet is solar-powered with a coffee station and a private deck overlooking the glistening water. Come nightfall, when you retreat to your room; the sounds of the trickling river and chirping frogs will lull your senses. You may even hear the cackles of distant hyenas and the sometimes alarming trumpet of the elephants in Chobe reverberating across the still water.
Wi-Fi
Instagrammers and digital nomads alike will be happy to know that there is good wifi at the main lodge. This being said, you'll have to exercise self-control as it is capped per user daily!
Food
You can choose from a few tasty options for each course from an a la carte menu, including hearty soups, home-style roasts and decadent desserts. In the mornings, your breakfast spread will be awaiting you at your table, featuring fruit juices, hot drinks and a selection of meats, cheeses and bread. You can also order a hot breakfast to satisfy any cravings! And get this, many of the ingredients in your meals have been locally grown at the Gondwana Self-Sufficiency Centre (SSC)! And if you fancy some more herbs, check inside the old wooden mokoros that have been turned into herb gardens!
Sustainability
Chobe River Camp is an endeavour by the revered sustainability-aligned Gondwana Collection Namibia. Their properties have received the highest eco-quality seals in Namibia by the environmental initiative Eco Awards Namibia and the Responsible Tourism Award. Built and run on their lauded philosophy, Chobe River Camp is another example of their world-class eco-tourism initiatives. As a joint venture with the Salambala Conservancy, revenues and monthly fees are paid to the local conservancy. Additionally, many local women and men are employed at Chobe River Camp, and receive training via the Gondwana Training Academy. Committed to social responsibility and community support, Gondwana allows visitors to donate to their Gondwana Care Trust, which donates food, clothing, bedding, educational products for schools and other causes as part of their community upliftment commitments. At the lodge, hot water and light are generated through solar power, and there is a waste management plan. The delicious meals are made with fruit, vegetable and meat ingredients locally grown and farmed at the Gondwana Self-Sufficiency Centre (SSC), meaning that the lodges do not have to rely on imports! All in all, Gondwana is paving the way for a sustainable tourism revolution, one camp at a time.
My highlights
Easy animal viewing - like clockwork, the animals would come down to the river at sunset for a drink and graze
The setting - The wide-open spaces and unending views!
Nighttime sounds - listening to elephants trumpeting, lions roaring and hyenas cackling all from the comfort of my bed
Is it for you?
If you are after a relaxed, river-side escape that does not skimp on comfort, amenities and thoughtfulness, this is definitely for you! The unique setting immerses you in your natural surroundings, and you're sure to be spoilt with wildlife sightings without moving a muscle. If this tickles your fancy, book a visit through Viatu!
In 3 words: boundless, animal sounds, river
