Written by Jess Tyrrell

The eternal allure of taking the road less travelled led my Namibian first-timer colleague Alessandro and me to the wild (and green!) Zambezi Region in northeast Namibia. We were spoilt to glimpses into authentic African lifestyles and unending views of wide rivers, sprawling floodplains, riverine forests, woodlands and a wealth of animal species. Onboard our trusted 4x4 Gondwana2Go chariot, we spent a sensational 6 days exploring and experiencing the region's wildlife, people and environment. Our once-in-a-lifetime adventure featured opulent accommodations at the forefront of sustainability, delicious food, migratory elephants, endemic animals, colourful birds and beautiful hippo-dotted rivers. Join us for stories of one helluva adventure. 

First stop: Nambwa Tented Lodge in Bwabwata National Park

Location

Nambwa Tented Lodge lies in the heart of the Mayuni Conservancy in Bwabwata National Park, which forms part of the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area. To get there, we took the tarred B8 (it is in excellent condition, but mind the cows!) from Ngoma Gate at Namibia's border with Botswana (route 1 on the map below). We passed through the capital of the region, Katima Mulilo, on the way. Katima is a great spot to stop for refreshments, fuel, and other essential items before heading into the wilderness. If you are travelling from the Kavango region in the west, you will similarly take the well-maintained B8 (also called the TransCaprivi Highway). 

Once we reached the entrance to Bwabwata National Park, we paid the small daily conservation fee and grabbed a map of the park (highly recommended as Google Maps is not enough in the Zambezi Region and, it will get you lost!). We also let our tyres down slightly and engaged 4x4/4WD. Finding Nambwa Island, where the lodge, campsite and lagoon camps are, is relatively straightforward. Just keep to the sand road for 14 km (with some speed so you don't get stuck!). If you, like us, travel after the rains, the plains can be in flood, which means you'll have to drive through some shallow water. 

Important: You will need to download multiple offline maps to navigate the Zambezi Region. Google Maps does not have the more minor roads in the National Parks; thus, you may never find your bed for the night! We recommend downloading a series of offline maps for the area, including Tracks4Africa, Pocket Earth AND Google Maps. Nothing beats a physical map, so get your hands on one of these too!

The Lodge

Akin to the treehouse of your childhood dreams, Nambwa Tented Lodge is positioned alongside the twisted Kwando River and rises elegantly and unobtrusively above the green wetlands. Raised wooden walkways bring you to an enormous deck shaded by ancient camelthorn trees, offering 180-degree views of the tree- and impala-dotted floodplain below. The pods from these trees are the favourite snack of the resident elephant herd that will pass beneath your feet, only an arm’s length away! Come dinner time; the wooden deck turns into a candle-lit open-air dining room where the in-house chef presents his creations for the day. When the stars are out and the jackals are calling, the entrancing flames of the bonfire will entice you nearer. 

Activities

Come 3 pm; it was time for the obligatory afternoon game drive! With Kenneth as our guide, we set forth through the long-grassed floodplains to the south of the park. We passed nibbling impala and grooming yellow-chested baboons as the sun began to cast golden hues across the scenic landscape. We arrived at Horseshoe Bend: a meander along the Kwando River with exquisite views that serves as the famous sunset drinks and snacks spot. Our hosts had set out an elaborate spread of Gin & Tonics, wines and spirits, and some drool-worthy snacks on the sandy banks. We admired blinking hippo while red-billed hornbills, Zazu from the Lion King, hopped curiously nearby. A short walk away, there is a raised wooden platform affording views further afield. The dark drive home welcomed the creatures of the night, including some bushbabies and a hyena!

In the early morning, the appeal of exploring the landscape from a different perspective was too much to bear. As the morning mists dissipated, we hopped onto a boat to explore the Kwando River, with Reitz as our guide. The lulling sound of slow-flowing water, low swooping bee-eaters, Fish eagles calling and red lechwe at eye-level had me in a total dreamlike state! We passed some hippos (with some great speed), stopped for coffee and snacks, learned all about the local customs and revelled in having the river to ourselves. Reitz told us the local folk tale about why Hippos have pink skin around their eyes, and he made me a necklace out of a white river lily, a custom usually reserved for brides and grooms! But as Reitz says, "what happens on the river, stays on the river". 

Without moving a muscle, we watched birds and animals right from the lodge, and just a short walk away, there's a shaded and hidden plunge pool. The morning we made our (sad) departure, we visited the Sijwa Project, an inspirational community initiative run by our hosts. 

My animal checklist: 

• Elephants

• Buffalo

• Sable & Roan Antelope

• Impala

• Red Lechwe

• Hyena 

• Hippo

• Zebra

• Kudu

• Baboons

• Crocodiles

• Bee-eaters

• African Fish Eagles (listen for their haunting calls!)

• Kingfishers 

Rooms

There are 10 tented suites – or should I say palaces — all en-suite with private walkways and viewing decks neatly tucked among towering camelthorn trees. Each tent features a large open plan lounge, bathroom and bedroom, all equipped with an array of creature comforts. Enormous windows spill light into the earthy toned and naturally wooded interiors, blurring the line between inside and out. There is also a hidden walk through closet with a safe, blankets and other thoughtful extras (like mozzie spray!). Alongside the couch, there is a tea and coffee station; however, there is no kettle. Instead, the environmentally-conscious establishment provided us with hot water on demand and in the mornings.

Similarly, there is no mini-fridge nor air conditioning. These amenities were not missed, I promise! Your hosts make sure all your needs are met and exceeded. I was elated when I jumped into bed to find a hot water bottle beneath the sheets and woke up to a tray of biscuits and hot water in the early morning—Mmm, bliss.

Wi-Fi

Nambwa Tented Lodge is seriously remote and off the beaten track. This is what makes it an exceptional experience. However, this comes with some caveats – or benefits if you ask me. There is no wifi in your room, only at the main lodge, and it is fleeting and very slow! If you need to do work on your trip or contact family, you may find it challenging here.

Food

What's for breakfast, you ask? Well, at Nambwa, you can have your cake and eat it, too. A full continental spread greeted us after our early morning boat cruise excursion. There were plenty of pastries, cheeses, meats and fruit to choose from! Furthermore, our choices of a hot breakfast order were taken and delivered pronto, yum. Come dinner time, we enjoyed a pre-set 3-course meal—the in-house chef presented his marvellous creations to us before we gorged ourselves. Think hearty soups, moist pies, decadent desserts, and, best of all, locally-grown ingredients! Plus, there is an elaborate drinks list to wash it all down with. If you have any dietary requirements or preferences, you have to make this known to your hosts when you arrive.

Sustainability

It is safe to say that African Monarch Lodges are spearheading the sustainable tourism train. Their commitment to the environment and its people in the Zambezi Region is evident everywhere you look. Nambwa Lodge is built unobtrusively from natural and sustainable materials. It is 100% solar-powered, has biodegradable amenities, employs locals, uses locally grown veggies in meals, has removed energy-guzzling appliances, and sells locally manufactured goods, ALL without compromising on luxury. 

Lastly, and most inspiringly, African Monarch Lodges has initiated a one-of-a-kind, genuinely sustainable community project that benefits both people and the planet. The community-run Sijwa Project recycles all waste from the lodges into sellable decor and jewellery, as well as strong eco-building materials. I bought a pair of beautiful green and gold earrings made from recycled glass bottles (see in the pic below!). Using circular permaculture principles, organic waste from the lodges is composted or fed to the worms in the wormery to produce a nutritious fertilizer for the vegetable garden. These veggies and fruits are what you will eat at the lodges! There are also chickens to provide the lodges with organic eggs; the surplus is sold. There is also a sewing school on site that trains locals of all ages to sew clothes and accessories. These items created from up-cycled materials are then sold to the public, generating much-needed income for the highly impoverished conservancy members, empowering and uplifting them with skills, knowledge and training.

My highlights

• The remote solitude of the lodge – you will feel like you're the only person on Earth!

• The thoughtfulness of small gestures – hot water and biscuits in the morning, hot water bottles, drinkable water

• The Sijwa Project had me in (happy) tears – I felt honoured to experience this life-changing project

Is it for you?

Suppose you are looking for a truly sustainable, life-changing (for you, the local people and the planet) stay. In that case, Nambwa Lodge is your best bet: experience unbridled natural scenery and photogenic animals guilt-free in an immaculately luxurious setting. If this sounds too good to be true, book a trip with Viatu and you decide ;)

In 3 words: Tranquility, elephants, solitude