Written by Daryll Williams

Etosha National Park is Namibia's top game-viewing destination and rated as one of the best safari destinations in Africa. Covering some 22.270 km² in the northern part of the country, Etosha has primarily become known as a home for a rich diversity of wildlife and birdlife, despite its stark appearance. The open terrain and sparse vegetation is ideal for spotting animals, especially when they congregate at waterholes during the winter months from June to August.

However, western Etosha has its own character and appeal, plus all-important (and often rare) wildlife encounters. The only accommodations here, the NWR luxury eco-camp called Dolomite Camp and a fenced, camping-only site called Olifantsrus, opened in 2010 and 2014 respectively. This section of the park was also off-limits to self-drivers until 2014, and it’s only recently that anyone can enter and leave through Galton Gate to enjoy the scenery and 15-plus waterholes in the area. This means there is less traffic, and a lot more peace.

What you’ll encounter in western Etosha

Western Etosha offers different vistas and biomes to the east and central areas - the most obvious being that the landscape is not as flat and the soil more charcoal in hue. There are hills, like the ridges around Dolomite Camp that gave it its name, and these are more wooded, with fewer mopane. Elephant also frequent the woodlands and savanna surrounds. And while the region is less of a hot spot for predators, lion are certainly seen. 

One resident pride is known as the Rateldraf pride; the name refers to a local waterhole. Otherwise, more unusual species that frequent this side of the park include Hartmann’s mountain zebra, black-faced impala and brown hyena. It’s also of special interest to botanists, with many unusual species sprouting after rains.

When to visit this side of the park

Simply put, the best time to visit western Etosha is the dry season from June through to October. Much like many other parts of Southern Africa, Namibia has two seasons; the wet season or “green season” which runs from November through to May and the dry season, which, as previously mentioned, runs from June through to October.

During the wet season, the grasses are tall and lush and much of the vegetation is thick and bushy. However, with so much water in the bush, the wildlife won’t congregate around waterholes as much, making them more spread out. If you choose to embark on a self-drive during this time, you’ll find the roads can be muddy, which can make for slow going.

In comparison, the dry season makes for denser wildlife populations, as they congregate around the remaining waterholes. With higher temperatures from August through to October the wildlife does not stray far from the waterholes. This can result in some incredible sightings if you have the patience to wait for a bit. It’s commonplace to see impala, springbok, zebra, ostrich, giraffe, and rhino all drinking at the same time and, if you are lucky enough, a cheetah or pride of lion may be watching nearby and waiting for the right opportunity to strike.

Which waterholes are worth visiting

If you are a photographer, there are about 15 waterholes in West Etosha of which about half are worth visiting as the others have run dry or been closed down. Our favorite waterholes are Dolomietpunt (famous for sightings), Klippan, Rateldraf, Okawao, Renostervlei, Olifantsrus and Tobiroen. Be sure to add them to your list of stops.

Insider tips

• This section of Etosha is closer to the stark splendour of the Skeleton Coast and the wilderness of Damaraland. An alternative route to Swakopmund is possible from western Etosha’s Galton Gate, on tarmac roads, although there are long sections with dirt where 4x4 is needed. 

• Remember the distances: Dolomite camp is a hefty 180 km from Okaukuejo. To try and cross the entire park from east to west in a day at the speed limit and allowing for sightings would be gruelling and is not recommended. 

• Keep an eye on your fuel gauge. You’ll typically need to leave the park and fill up at Kamanjab. There is a fuel station at Okaukuejo.

• If you choose to stay at Dolomite Camp, note it is not self-catering, so the restaurant will have to be frequented.

Western Etosha is within reach

Namibia is the ultimate remote travel destination, with its vast open spaces and intriguing wildlife that have adapted to this desolate environment, and western Etosha is no different. Take the opportunity to explore Etosha’s hidden gem, and let the country offer up unforgettable wilderness adventures.

If you’d like to experience Etosha West for yourself, just head over to viatu.com to enquire.