A Complete Guide to the Fish River Canyon
Written by Jess Tyrrell
Did you know that Namibia is home to the world's second-largest canyon, second only to the Grand Canyon? What we do know is that the Fish River Canyon's stark, arid beauty will take your breath away - whether owing to the panoramic views from along the rim or quite literally if you brave the world-famous 90 km 5-day hike that meanders through the chasm. Expect uncrowded desert vistas of the 500 million-year-old canyon, its unique fauna and flora, rocky gorges and famed fiery sunsets. Whichever way you choose to experience it, marvelling at Namibia's greatest geological wonder is a bucket-list worthy adventure. It may come second in terms of size, but Africa's oldest and largest canyon is our number 1 ;)
For a comprehensive, all-you-need-to-know guide to Namibia’s majestic Fish River Canyon, read on.
Location
The mesmerising Fish River Canyon cuts through the Koubis massif in southern Namibia, from Seeheim to the Orange River at Namibia’s border with South Africa. The southern section of the 160 km long, 27 km wide canyon is in the |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, at the southern tip of Namibia. It is the deepest in this region, reaching a staggering 550 m. Here you’ll find Hobas Rest Camp – the entrance to the canyon and the start of the Fish River hiking trail. Further south, deeper into the park, the 90 km hiking trail ends at the Ai-Ais Hotsprings and Spa, an oasis for hikers and non-hikers alike. The northern section of the Fish River Canyon extends into private nature reserves, Gondwana Nature Park, Vogelstrausskluft and Canyon Nature Park.
How to get there
By car
Despite its sprawling length, the canyon is surprisingly hard to access. The few gravel roads have deteriorated and you’ll need a high clearance vehicle to get by (but a 4x4 is not absolutely necessary). Check out Viatu’s self-driving tips.
The southern section
Hobas (Main) Viewpoint: From Karasburg and B1, take C12 to C37 to the main Fish River Canyon viewpoint. From Keetmanshoop, take B4 to C12, then to C37.
If you visit the canyon at Hobas, you may be required to pay a conservation fee of €2 (N$40) per person for foreigners, plus €0.5 (N$10) per car) upon entry. The gate and office are open daily from 6 am to 10 pm.
Ai-Ais: To go directly to Ai-Ais Hot Springs from B1, take C10 to Ai-Ais. The drive from Hobas to Ai-Ais will take you around 1 hour.
The northern section (Private Nature Reserves)
From Keetmanshoop or Lüderitz take B4 and turn on D463.
By plane
There are several airstrips for private and charter flights into The Fish River Canyon area:
at Ai-Ais
at Fish River Lodge and Vogelstrausskluft
at Seeheim
in the vicinity at Grunau, Keetmanshoop and Bethanie
Best time to go
The Fish River Canyon is a great destination to travel to all year round, but those hoping to avoid the rainy season (a mere 10 to 50 mm at most) should go between May and October. Autumn (March to May) is the best (and busiest) time of the year to visit the Fish River Canyon, with temperatures ranging from 26°C to 41°C and the evenings pleasantly cool. Summer (December to February) is also a popular time to go however it is VERY hot, with daily temperatures cruising between 38°C and 41°C. Spring (September to November) is less busy, with daily highs ranging from 31°C to 38°C. The winter months (June to August) are comfortably cool (20-25°C) and rainless, making winter the best time to do the Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail.
What to do
Where do we even start?!
Main Attractions
The Fish River Trail
This is one of the most popular treks in southern Africa and one of the most strenuous. Only open for 30 hikers per day between May 1st and September 15th, hiking the Fish River Canyon from Hobas to Ai-Ais is the best way to experience the stark and rugged canyon scenery. The traditional route is a self-guided 90km trail (80km if you find the shortcuts!) that can be done in 5 to 7 days. You will have to pack all of your food, sleeping equipment and clothes, but the lug will have been so worth it when you take refreshing dips in the river, sleep under the twinkling milky way and marvel skyward at ancient rock formations.
Take note:
You will need to prebook your hike (up to a year in advance!) through Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) in Windhoek (+264) 61 285 7333 reservations@nwr.com.na or in Capetown (+27) 21 422 3761 ct.bookings@nwr.com.na
Approximate prices: The hike itself is €18 (N$330) per person; park entrance fee of €3 (N$60), or €4 (N$80) for foreigners; shuttle from the end (Ai-Ais) to the start (Hobas) €15 (N$270)
You will need a minimum of 3 people in your group and a maximum of 20
All hikers will need to present a doctors letter sent by NWR stating that they are fit and healthy enough to do the hike (no older than 40 days)
Pack a GPS and map (a map can be bought at Hobas and Ai-Ais). Check out this handy map with the route, points of interest and recommended rest stops indicated
You can park your car for free at either the Ai-Ais camp or Hobas Campsites
There are only 2 emergency exits from which you can exit the canyon: The first is 16 km into the hike near Sulphur Springs and the other is after another 50 km (check the map below)
Remember your gas cooker as you will have to boil the river water (from larger pools) for drinking and food. Alternatively, you can use water purification tablets or a mobile purifier
Always carry a minimum of 2 litres of water on you at all times
Prepare for 40°C weather even in winter
You may want to bring a pole along for river crossings in the rainy season
For handy hiking tips for this trail, check out this video
Viewpoints
The Main Viewpoint (Hobas Viewpoint)
Accessible to everyone, this viewpoint is the most photographed, and for good reason! The awe-inspiring views reach down into the canyon below and far beyond. Have a picnic under a shaded table overlooking Hell’s Bend. Day entry permits can be bought at the gate at NAD60 per person, plus NAD10 per vehicle. You will need a high clearance vehicle to get to the viewpoint.
The Hikers’ Viewpoint
This viewpoint is 3 km north of the Main Viewpoint and is at the start of the Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail. Scenes from here are panoramic and afford a good sense of the size of the canyon. This is a great spot to watch the sunset!
Sulphur Springs (Palm Springs) Viewpoint
This viewpoint is a 2-hour roundtrip only recommended for trave
llers staying overnight in the area. From the Hobas campsite, you follow the D324 south for 15 km on the bumpy gravel road, driving parallel with the canyon. You can stop off all along here to take some pics! The last viewpoint that can be reached with a 2x4 is Sulphur Springs (Palm Springs). You can rest and have padkos (road trip snacks) at a picnic table and enjoy views of another tight bend along the river.
Slackpacking the Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail
3 to 4 days with Gondwana Collection
Gondwana Collection Namibia offers adventurers the option to hike the northern reaches of the canyon over 3 to 4 days, without having to carry your food, clothes or sleeping equipment (only water and snacks for your hike). Instead, all your equipment and luggage will be transported to your wondrous self-catering unit each day along the route. This means you can see more while carrying less!
There are 3 slackpacking routes to choose from: the Klipspringer Trail (17 km hike, 3 nights), the Zebra Trail (35 km, 3 nights) and the Fish Eagle Trail (35 km, 4 nights). There are a total of 4 ‘Klipspringer Camps’ (Base Station, Battlesnake, Koelkrans and Horseshoe), some along the rim and others in the canyon, where you will overnight depending on your chosen trail. All trails include drop-off at the start and collection at the end. All routes promise breathtaking scenery, enormous starry skies, and memorable campfire stories. Trails only run in the winter months, from April to September and a minimum of 4 people and a maximum of 14 are allowed per group.
If you do not want to do the guided multi-day hikes, but would like to stay in one or more of the Klipspringer Camps and do some day hikes, you can book these with Viatu. However, you will have to drive with your own 4X4 to each rest stop as Gondwana does not offer transfers. You will have to be totally self-sufficient – there are no staff members at the camps, nor food or water.
2 to 3 days Rim to River
Journeys Namibia also offers a comfortable and scenic slackpacking route for those who want to experience life in the canyon. The 2-day and 3-day hikes include a knowledgeable guide, breakfast, lunch and dinner plus drinks while hiking. A minimum of 2 guests and a maximum of 10 guests per group are allowed. For the 2-day hike, you will start at the Fish River Lodge and spend the first night at Camp Eternity and the second at Camp Edge. Those opting for the 3-day hike will spend the first night at Fish River Lodge, the second night at Camp Eternity and the third night at Camp Edge. You will be sleeping in unique, unimposing stone gabion shelters that overlook the mesmerising, colour-shifting canyon below.
Day hikes
From Fish River Lodge you can do guided day-hikes between April and September into the canyon below and along the rim (also mountain biking, sundowners and game drives!). Experience the pools, wildlife, sunsets and geology without having to camp.
To book the Rim to River Hiking Trail or the Canyon Day Hike, reach out to Viatu at helpme@viatu.com.
Ai-Ais Natural Hot Springs
Behold, a green oasis offering reprieve from the scorching desert sun, featuring palm trees and thermal baths! Appearing like a mirage, Ai-Ais hot springs offers intrepid desert travellers the chance to dust off and relax, pool- and bath side. These sulphur springs can be found at the end of the Fish River trail at Ai-Ais resort. The resort also offers day hikes into the canyon.
In the area:
Stop off at Canyon Roadhouse
In the hot Namib sun, nothing beats a cold beer at this famous, quirky institution, 16 km North of Hobas. With the rusting, vintage cars under the photogenic quiver trees, you will be spoilt with photo ops (and there’s Wi-Fi too!).
Kayaking on the orange river
A watersport enthusiasts dream, the Orange River is situated 110 km south of Ai-Ais at Namibia’s border with South Africa. There are numerous kayaking companies along the river that offer day trips or multi-day adventures along the river. The water is warm, the rapids are exhilarating and the scenery through the gorge is magnificent. Kayaking can be organised with Felix Unite or Amanzi trails.
Visit the Quiver tree forest, Giant’s Playground and Mesosaurus Fossil site near Keetmanshoop
150 km North of Hobas Rest Camp, en route back to Windhoek, you will pass through the desert town, Keetmanshoop. Here you can visit a national monument of Namibia – the Quivertree Forest, where 250 specimens of Aloidendron dichotomum (Quivertrees) sit amongst the desert boulders. The San people used to use the branches of these upside-down looking trees as quivers, the tallest of which are up to 300 years old! From June to July, bright yellow flowers bloom and attract a large variety of insects, birds and mammals.
Close to the forest is Giants Playground, a peculiar geological formation. The large piles of haphazardly placed dolerite rocks look as if they are the abandoned toy blocks of giants! At the nearby Mesosaurus Fossil site, you can marvel at the well-preserved fossils of an early aquatic relative of reptiles – Mesosaurus. These are convincing evidence for continental drift as the same fossils in the same rock type are found here and in South America.
Wildlife
You might be amazed to hear that there is in fact life in and around the desolate Fish River Canyon! The Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park supports a variety of wildlife, including the classic Namibian representatives: Ostrich, oryx and zebra. Look out for desert-dwelling dassies, jackals, bat-eared foxes, klipspringers, vervet monkeys and the endemic Nama padloper tortoise. The park falls within the Succulent Karoo Biome and features many unique and ancient plant species, including the rare and bizarre-looking ‘halfmens’ (half-humans) which can reach up to 5 m tall, and large, soft-barked aloes called Quiver trees. Keep an eye and ear out for the beautiful African fish eagle and its haunting call!
Accommodation
Basic
Gondwana Collection Klipspringer Camps
Available all year round for non-hiking groups that want exclusive access to the beautiful northern section of the canyon. Completely immerse yourself in nature and experience uninterrupted peace, quiet and exquisite day and night time scenery. A 4X4 is required to access all camps as there are no transfers. All camps are between 8 to 16 km away from one another and they are entirely self-supporting and self-catering (no plug points, electricity or bedding). Hiking – even day hikes from your camp – are only permitted between April and September.
Stay in your choice of 4 rustic and unforgettable camps. All cost €19 (N$350) pp/night:
Klipspringer Base Camp
This quaint farmhouse with comfortable rooms and a large veranda, is where you are required to check-in for all camps and is your last chance to buy braai packs€7 (N$120) and drinks. There are 9 adjoining rooms with no doors and a fully-equipped kitchen.
Camp Battlesnake
A cosy central cabin with a shaded veranda and two wooden cabins, all overlooking the canyon.
Koelkrans Camp
The communal small cabin is on a ridge overlooking the valley and overnight cabins below, shaded by ebony and tamarisk trees. Swim and admire the river view and have sundowners on the koppie (small rocky hill). Advanced 4X4 skills are required to get to this camp.
Horseshoe Camp
Built right on the ridge, it has exquisite views of the horse-shoe shaped river below. Sleep in stone-and-wood cabins with views onto the dry riverbed, often dotted with wild animals.
Boplaas Campsite by Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR)
Found along one of the most scenic roads in all of Namibia, Boplaas campsite is situated on the banks of the Orange River. There are 15 shaded and grassy campsites all a stone's throw from the river's edge. Cool off and kayak in the river to the backdrop of rugged slopes on the South Africa side.
Schützenhaus Guesthouse, Keetmanshoop
Established in 1907, this is the oldest German Club in all of southern Africa! Inviting weary travellers with open arms, this tranquil guesthouse located in Keetmanshoop town is a great base from which to explore the Quiver Tree Forest, Fish River Canyon and Giant’s Playground. Stay in one of 26 rooms or camp, and cool off in the pool with a drink in hand.
Medium
Fish River Lodge (Journeys Namibia)
This immaculate lodge is the only lodge along the entire rim of the Fish River Canyon! Enjoy breathtaking 180° views of the desolate canyon from sunrise to sunset, whether you are inside or out, afforded by the towering glass windows. Swim in the rim-flow pool, practice yoga outside and stargaze come nightfall. There are ample adventure activities on offer at the lodge, including mountain biking, sundowners, guided hikes, and game drives!
A peaceful retreat tucked away in the Great Karas Mountains of southern Namibia. There are only 8 rooms, all comfortably equipped, as well as a campsite. Swim in the pool, read a nature guide in the library and taste a traditional Namibian meal with your hosts.
Fancy
Canyon Lodge, Gondwana Collection
An eco-awarded, 4-star luxury lodge set amongst marmalade sand, granite boulders and luscious green grass. Following the path from the century-old farmhouse alongside desert horses and camelthorn trees, you will find your quintessentially African thatch-and-stone chalet, an inviting pool and views across the canyon. Go for a sunset drive, do a day-hike or simply relax poolside.
Canyon Roadhouse, Gondwana Collection
This famous, quirky lodge is a must-see stop for anyone travelling through Keetmanshoop! Its rusting vintage cars and photogenic Quiver trees make for some unique pics. Refuel your glass at the pompstasie bar and sit amidst the several cars that form part of the architecture! Large and comfortable rooms are positioned along a courtyard, within walking distance to the terrace and pool. For sunset, climb to the top of the hill behind the lodge and look out onto the Holoog Mountain and the Gondwana Canyon Park. You have to try the Amarula cheesecake!
Canyon Village, Gondwana Collection
Celebrate Nama culture, the drama of the Namib desert and desert-adapted wildlife at this desert lodge, close to the Fish River Canyon. Stay in a luxury stone-and-thatch chalet with historical murals depicted on the walls and cool off in the swimming pool. Go on a sunset game drive to the canyon and spot zebra, wildebeest, springbok and gemsbok.
How to include the Fish River Canyon in your Namibian adventure
Being in the southernmost point of Namibia, the Fish River Canyon is quite far removed from other Namibian sights, however, it is well worth the extra effort. After landing in Windhoek at Hosea Kutako International Airport, rent a vehicle (preferably a 4x4) and drive south towards Keetmanshoop, making sure to take in the beautiful moonscape scenery and wildlife that straddles the road. This 500 km journey will take you around 5 hours, after which you can rest up in Keetmanshoop before leaving for the Fish River Canyon. From Keetmanshoop, it is a short 150 km, 2-hour drive to Hobas and the canyon. You can then return to Windhoek or drive to the coastal town Lüderitz, then to Sossusvlei and finally end up back in Windhoek.
Similarly, if you travelled to Sossusvlei first, you can drive south to Lüderitz and then inland to Keetmanshoop, and finally to the Fish River Canyon. From here you can travel north to Windhoek.
Viatu offers a sensational trip, the Extended Self-Drive Package: Namibia's Wildlife & Wilderness, that incorporates the Fish River Canyon and the best wildlife experiences. This tour allows you to meet the country’s famous desert-adapted animals at Etosha and the Kalahari Desert, and to enjoy the vast open wilderness of the Fish River Canyon and rocky Damaraland.
If you are doing the full hike, don’t pack a tent! This may seem like camping rookie error number 1, but it will be an unnecessary and heavy addition to your backpack. Opt for sleeping under the stars on a sandbank or another flat surface.
Make sure to watch the sunrise over the canyon; you’ll be blown away by the transforming colours of the surrounding rocks and won’t have to share the view with many others.
The gravel roads around the canyon sometimes cause tyres to puncture. Make sure you know how to change your car tyres before leaving the rental company!
Despite being Namibia’s second most popular attraction, less than 1% of the total number of annual tourists to the Grand Canyon make it to the Fish River Canyon every year. Talk about undiscovered! Here you can have an unadulterated natural experience, in a gobsmackingly dramatic desert landscape, whether you are a hiker or not. This is one drama you should want to participate in, so don’t miss out, get packing! Find more Namibia inspo at Viatu.
