Written by Jess Tyrrell

The beauty of 'Africa Time' is that time indeed does slow down – anyone who has travelled to the continent before will know what I am talking about. So, after what felt like a month-long zen retreat, we headed out for the second stop of our trip: Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge. This remote lodge, 1 of only 2 lodges in the region, is at the gate of the wild Nkasa Rupara National Park. Hugged by the Kwando and Linyati rivers, Nkasa Rupara National Park is the largest formally protected wetland area in Namibia (cue the buffalo & hippo)!

Next stop: Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge just outside Nkasa Rupara National Park. If you’re confused and missed our first destination, you can find it here ;)

Location

Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge is in the southernmost tip of the Zambezi Region, bordering Nkasa Rupara National Park. Driving from the west, (from Bwabwata National Park), we turned right onto the newly tarred C49 (route 2 on the map below) just after a small settlement called Kongola. After around 70km on this road, the turnoff for Nkasa Rupara National Park is on the right. You will pass through Mudumu National Park on this road. If you are coming from the east (Katima Mulilo/Botswana side), you will similarly take the C49 travelling southwest for around 120 km before this turnoff. We navigated the sandy roads through villages and grasslands in the Wuparo Conservancy, following a series of "Well done! You are almost there!" signs put up by the lodge. We made it with no hiccups to the gates of Nkasa Rupara National Park! The lodge is a short drive to the left of the park entrance.  

Be sure to let some air out of your tyres before navigating the sandy roads, and be prepared to drive through shallow water.

The Lodge

Arriving in camp, our friendly Italian hosts welcomed us and led us up the tower-like stairs onto the lodge's main wooden deck. The lodge sits on the reed-lined banks of a water channel, which started flowing the night we arrived, looking out onto sprawling wetland with swooping birds and cheeky monkeys. The open-plan main area is adorned with earthy decor elements and has 180-degree views. There is a tucked-away lounge, breakfast nook, bar and lounge. And if you ascend another flight of stairs, you will arrive at the conservatory-style viewing deck atop the lodge.

Activities

Activities at Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge let you revel in the privilege of visiting one of the most remote regions in all of southern Africa. You can view animals lolling in the veld right from the lodge or go on a game drive into Nkasa Rupara National Park and the Wuparo Conservancy. We opted for a game drive to Lupala Island into the park with Derek as our trusted local guide. Derek took us on a crusade to 'Hippo Pool' in Nkasa Rupara National Park. We passed a herd of elephants huddling around a newborn calf on the way. There was also a naughty youngster missing a tail (a crocodile had claimed it!). Derek spotted some fresh lion tracks, yet the high grass obscured a potential sighting. Arriving at Hippo Pool, we hopped out the car for coffee and snacks. Although we couldn't see any hippos, there were vast herds of buffalo and red lechwe. Driving back, Derek taught us about the beautiful Leadwood trees that clump together across the plains. The burned ash from these trees is used to plaster the houses of the locals, we were told. On our way home, we saw a regal Bateleur Eagle, Warthogs and the worlds heaviest flying bird, a Kori Bustard (excuse my French)! We lounged next to the large pool at the lodge on our off time, and at sunset, we watched the sky change colours from the couches on the observatory deck. To enjoy the stars, we cosied up to the bonfire to the sounds of ribbiting frogs and whooping hyenas.

My animal checklist: 

• Elephants

• Buffalo

• Kudu

• Red Lechwe

• Lion (tracks)

• Warthogs

• Impala

• White-backed vultures

• A Kori Bustard

• A Bateleur Eagle

Rooms

The raised tented rooms, of which there are only 10, are made from steel, canvas and wood, with glass sliding doors and breezy windows. Furnishings are minimalist and sandy hued. There is a hidden coffee station with extra niceties. The bathroom is spacious and private. There is also a private veranda from where you can watch the animals going about their business below!

Wi-Fi 

Would you believe it! Despite being one of Namibia's most remote lodges, there is good wifi in the main lodge area.

Food

Like an Italian mama, your hosts like to keep you fed! At sunset, you can enjoy delicious homemade snacks. A local chef, trained by our hosts, produced scrumptious Italian-African fusion meals for us, served on the open-air deck with twinkling stars ahead. We also snacked on warm homemade bread and chose from a selection of wines and spirits. Come breakfast time; a healthy-sized continental feast greeted our sleepy eyes! You can enjoy all your cold breakfast favourites and order warm cooked options too. If you would prefer vegetarian, vegan or other specific meals, just let your hosts know when you arrive. 

Sustainability

Nkasa Lupala Lodge is in a joint venture enterprise with the local Wuparo Conservancy. Not only are 95% of their employees from Wuparo, but they also pay a monthly fee and much of their revenue to the conservancy. The low impact lodge uses local water, it is also solar-powered and has been discretely built using locally purchased sustainable materials, such as mopane wood, thatch and reeds. They sell and use locally crafted and produced crafts, souvenirs and beauty products. The lodge is a member of the International Ecotourism Society (TIES), and they have received awards from the Eco Awards Namibia and the Responsible Tourism Rewards. They are also a member of Community Conservation Namibia, The Namibian Wetlands Route and the Future of Tourism.

My highlights

• The scenery - the enormous trees standing haphazardly across the vast plains are a photographers dream

• The casual atmosphere - you feel like you're at a friends holiday house!

• Their efforts to support local endeavours – locally made crafts, smellies, and products are sold on-site

Is it for you?

If you like personal, down-to-earth experiences, this is one for you! Very early on, you will feel like part of the hosts’ family. If the temptation is just too much to bear, you can effortlessly book your trip through Viatu and be there in no time.

In 3 words: Comfortable, family-friendly, sunsets